Za’atar. It only takes a single encounter to understand why this spice mix is so beloved in the Middle East and beyond. Aromatic and intriguing, but without being too dominating, its use is as extensive as its popularity. Try it in olive oil for dipping bread, on top of labneh or hummus, with the breakfast egg. Or, as in this case, in a marinade.
The main ingredient of za’atar is…za’atar. Za’atar (zahter if you’re in Turkey) is a group of wild herbs that grow in the Middle East. Its flavour is reminiscent of thyme, oregano or marjoram but may vary quite significantly from one area to another. It is the main ingredient of the spice mix which, somewhat confusingly, is also called za’atar. When people talk about za’atar, though, they tend to mean the spice mix rather than the herb.
Za'atarA spice mix consisting of the Middle Eastern wild herb also called za'atar (or zahter), sesame seeds, sumac and salt.
A word of caution, though. Some commercial brands add flour or other cheap, flavourless fillers and top up with artificial flavour enhancers, presumably to reduce production costs. This invariably reduces the quality, so always check the ingredient list if you don’t know the brand and buy the best quality you can afford. Za’atar from Palestine is particularly prized, but it doesn’t have a monopoly on good quality. I am lucky enough to live a stone’s throw from Istanbul’s 350-years-old-and-still-running spice market and am very happy with the Turkish kahvaltılık za’atar I buy there.
I have always loved lemon and thyme chicken (vegetarians aside, who doesn’t?). It’s such a classic flavour combination it’s hard to tire of it. Za’atar does much of the same, adding a fragrant and herby note to the chicken. What’s better, it’s equally addictive! When I think about it, it’s been some time since I’ve had lemon and thyme chicken. I prefer za’atar these days.
I usually serve this chicken with a simple shepherd’s salad and perhaps some chickpeas or beans. Bulgur and rice also work well, as indeed to potato wedges or chips – or even a mixture of oven roasted veggies you fancy or happen to have lying around in the fridge. If you can’t get hold of za’atar, or have run out and need an instant substitute, a mixture of thyme, oregano, sesame seeds, sumac and salt can be used. It won’t be the same. But it’ll still be very good. Serves 2-3, depending on what is served alongside.
- 2 chicken breasts, boneless and skinless (c. 400-500 g)
- 3 tbsp olive oil
- 3 tsp za’atar
- 1/2 lemon, in wedges
- salt and pepper
- Separate the mini filet from the breast. Slice the breasts horizontally into two equally thick parts. Put all the chicken slices side by side between two layers of plastic wrap and beat with an appropriate utensil until even thickness; I use a flat-bottomed frying pan.
- Make the marinade by whisking the olive oil, 2 tsp za’atar, 1/2 tsp salt and 1/4 tsp black pepper in a bowl. Emerge the chicken fillets in the marinade, making sure it is as evenly distributed as you can be bothered to make it, cover and refridgerate – overnight if you can, though an hour or two will do.
- Fry the fillets in a hot griddle pan or on a barbecue until charred and cooked through, 1-2 minutes or more on each side. Arrange on a platter, sprinkle the remaining 1 tsp za’atar on top and serve immediately with lemon wedges on the side. Squeeze the lemon juice over the chicken before eating.